New GMC Wooden Flooring Saw - Brilliant!

!9#: New GMC Wooden Flooring Saw - Brilliant!

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Woodworking School - Teaching Furniture Making Students About Innovation

!9# Woodworking School - Teaching Furniture Making Students About Innovation

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This is the first of a new series about British Furniture Design which I first had published in British Woodworking Magazine in September 2008. I'm writing this in the context of a renaissance in British furniture making and furniture design. A golden period akin to that of Thomas Chippendale, Sheraton and Hepplewhite, great names evocative of a great period in English furniture making. But hopefully here I'll do more than bang the drum of British furniture design. Hopefully I'll be able to talk with you about what good design is, what good furniture making is, what quality is, what art is. For all of these things are essential if one is to make sense of good workmanship. Nothing saddens me more than seeing hundreds even thousands of hours poured in to a piece of exquisite workmanship only to be let down by poor design. If technique and craftsmanship give us the 'how', then design gives us an explanation, at least in part, as to the 'why'. The reason, the motivation, for spending hundreds of hours making something truly extraordinary.

"There is no such thing as art..... there are only artists, who are favoured with a gift of balancing shapes and colours until they get it right. And rarer still, who posses the integrity of character which never rests content with half solutions, but is ready to forgo all easy effects, all superficial success for the toil and agony of sincere work" Ernst H Gombrich 1950. The Story of Art. This is the first paragraph of one of the earliest editions of what would describe itself as one of the most famous and popular books on art ever published. For 45 years it has remained unrivalled as an introduction to the whole subject, from the earliest cave paintings to the experimental art of today. Yet Prof. Gombrich's radical and powerful introduction to the subject has been tempered over the years to something a little more accommodating to the art market of today. To say there is no such thing as art, though true, is challenging. To focus instead upon the challenges facing the producer rather than what is produced is invigorating, for it is this process that we want to examine. How is it done, what is it done for, what is important about it, how does the creative craftsperson work, what is valuable, what is not.

More than a year ago I attended an exhibition of contemporary British furniture that had the extraordinary effect of making me feel physically sick. The work of art is meant to move you, often physically, but not in this way. This exhibition entitled 'A Celebration of Craftsmanship' surrounded me with the work of young aspiring makers producing objects in which hundreds and thousands of hours had been invested, yet the overall effect was, to me at least, dispiriting. What was missing? What was not there? It is that, the why, the soul, the heart , that I want to talk about. When taking on a large subject it is wise to attempt to digest it in small pieces and the structure and strategy of this series is to look at design in a series of discreet focused and complete chapters. Each article taking on a subject, and aspect of the conundrum that is art and design. In this case I'm going to start with the subject that foxed probably 80% of those makers exhibiting at Cheltenham last year. The subject of innovation. It's one of the features of truly creative work that it is innovative, that it is different, it is in some way challenging to us. It's one of the things we look out for. However, I do not in my heart believe that mere innovation alone is sufficient to move me. The Mark 1 eyeball is a terrifically clever animal. She will analyse a group of shapes, forms, in the twinkling. She can spot a dud line at 100 yards and is ever seeking to be visually enchanted and entertained. It is the Mark 1 eyeball that is the driver of fashion, together with a considerable industry that also benefits from it financially, but we won't go into dreary commerce. It's this requirement for innovation, for newness, for freshness. It's this craving to make something new that induces the production of such vomit making furniture. Everybody wants to do something new. So lets grab the legs off of that, and the top off of that, and the finish off of that and what we end up with is a piece of furniture with all the elegance of a camel, and frankly I'm fed up with it.

So what does the innovative attitude of the designer give us? I'd like to compare chairs made by two furniture makers. The first is John Brown and the second is John Makepeace. John Brown is not a well known figure and not even his greatest friend could describe his work as being boldly innovative. John was a chair maker within a tradition of stick back chair making. He worked to my mind with great integrity, sensitivity and true awareness of what a good piece of furniture should be. But he worked without the objective of turning the chair on it's head and starting again. John Brown was innovative but within the context of the details of the piece. He played around with proportion. He looked hard at the shapes and weights of different components, he bottomed out his seats and turned his spindles, he bowed his arms and tapered his legs, all with infinite care and sensitivity. You get the feeling that a chair made by John Brown was finished and polished with the sweat from his own brow. There is no bit of that chair that was ever given to anybody else. His work, his hands, his heart is deep within the fibres of the material. His whole personality infects the chair giving it presence, honesty, quality. Now there's a word I don't use very often. Quality. By that I don't mean 'quality assured', or 'hand made by robots', I mean genuine creative quality. But it is a piece within it own oeuvre, within it's own tradition. Most of John Brown's stick back chairs stand out from the pack as being damn well made chairs, but would not define the moment they had been made. Would not change the way we look at chairs in the way that a John Makepeace chair might do.

The first time I saw Millennium I can honestly say that it was heart stopping, and that really is the test for me of whether a piece of work is profoundly good. We often say a work of art moves us and the art critic of The Times, David Sylvester, would describe the physical effects upon his body, the trembling hand, that a great painting would have. Moving us often literally means exactly that. Do we, can we perceive within our bodies a physical effect. Another test, especially with furniture for me is 'the bastard, I wish I'd made that'. If I feel like that it's a good one. But why is Millennium so good? It was in lots of ways a development of techniques and forms that John Makepeace had been working on for two, maybe three decades. With chairs like Mitre, John Makepeace had shown the technical competence of his workshop. Laminating compound forms in ebony, a timber renowned for it's ability to not stick one piece to another, and Millennium is a step on from that. Laminating compound shapes in a white timber like holly with totally invisible glue line is still incredibly impressive but these days we see technical competence and workshop mastery almost as a given, but John Makepeace was the first to push it to extremes. The forms of Millennium are like no other chair that goes before it. It has obvious influences from other periods and critics and art historians talk about the exact stylistic links to earlier movements, but the key thing is that it marks a point in the development of the history of chair making. It puts down a landmark. Before this point chairs weren't like this, after this point they were influenced by the way that John Makepeace went about chair making, and that perhaps is something worth shouting about. If we accept that the things that we invent describe our lives, that common things from spoons and pens to chairs and bicycles are all made bearing the signature of our time and place and history will be learnt from the artifacts that we leave behind then this chair is of paramount importance. However, as a chair I cannot say I would want to be that close to it. I can feel very little of John Makepeace's warmth and personality from within it's bounds. Whereas a John Brown chair would sit in the sunshine and hum a pretty song to me, Millennium sits in an air conditioned museum, admired by many, but known by very few.

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Choosing a Band Saw

!9# Choosing a Band Saw

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his month's "how to buy" topic is band saws. Depending on what kind of woodworking you normally do, band saws can be essential to the shop or a perfect accessory to the table saw.

There are two common styles of band saws, the three wheel and the two wheel. After this it is mainly a matter of size. Three wheel band saws give you a greater throat depth than a two wheel having the same blade length but they have other problems, which take away from any cutting advantage. Two wheels are much easier to align properly and keep aligned during use than three. The thinner blades also will break much easier with three wheels because of the extra stress created by smaller wheels. All in all, there are very few three wheel band saws, which are worth the money and hassle they create. There was a time when there were many on the market, but these days they are rare except at garage sales. If you need the extra throat depth then buy a larger two wheel machine. Just as an example, years ago I was using a three wheel band saw and it took me almost half an hour to get the blade to track properly only to find when I put it under load the tracking went off again. From here on I'm only going to talk about the two wheel band saws.

The frame construction is the first thing to look at. Smaller bench top band saws can be pressed metal, plastic resin, steel or cast iron. Larger band saws will be either cast iron or steel. The pressed metal and plastic resin are not as rigid as steel or cast and these saws are definitely meant for light duty hobby and craft work. You are much better off to get one that has a steel or cast iron frame. They will last longer, run smoother and the blades will track better. Larger band saws all come with cast iron or steel frames so you do not have to worry about the rigidity. Each type of frame has its advantages and disadvantages. Steel frames are the most rigid and therefore more stable and smoother running, but they are also more expensive. Cast iron frames are cheaper and often allow you to increase the height capacity using a riser, but having cast parts they can crack and fracture through use. In most home shop applications this is not a large issue but it depends on the amount of use.

Motor size can range from 1/6HP to 1/3HP for bench top and from 1/2HP upward to 3HP or larger on big industrial machines. The smaller the motor the harder it has to work. If you mainly work on smaller crafts or model construction, the smaller bench tops are fine, but in the long run try and go with one, which has 1/4HP or larger. If you build furniture, cabinets or larger projects go with a floor model with at least a 3/4HP motor. The 1/2HP models just don't have enough power for heavier cutting. If you want to cut metal, then make sure the machine has slower speeds, down to less than 200 rpm instead of the approximate 3000 rpm for woodcutting.

Make sure the table tilt and adjustment works smoothly and does not bind anywhere. Tilt it to the full 45 degrees and look underneath to make sure nothing is interfering with the blade. If the saw does not come with a fence, see if the table to drilled and or tapped for a fence rail. The quality of band saw fences is wide, so have a good look at it. If you really like the saw but the fence is garbage all is not lost. If nothing can be done with the existing one you can make your own which can be just as stable and accurate as anything available. The average table size is about 143 x 143. Many woodworkers find this a little small so you can buy or build a larger auxiliary table to give you a greater work surface.

There is not a great deal of difference between an open and closed stand. Open stands are just as stable and in some cases more so, but they do allow your motor to be out in the open where dust can get into it. If you have an open stand make sure you blow the dust out of the motor on a regular basis. Closed stands keep the motor cleaner, but not totally dust free, plus they offer storage space for wrenches, hex keys, manual and accessories.

The blade on a band saw is held in place by either guide blocks or bearings. Bearings run cooler, smoother and quieter than blocks. The majority of saws have guide blocks but there are conversion kits available or blocks made out of resins, which run cooler and smoother than the steel factory ones supplied. If is worth using either option since you blades will last longer and the noise level will almost be cut in half.

Most machines these days have dust ports of some sort and they are important for the same reasons; cleaner air, safer shop environment, cleaner longer lasting machine.

If you are interested in doing a lot of resawing, look into an actual resaw band saw. Most band saws will go up to ¾" or 13 wide blades and although they can resaw the odd piece, they are not designed for continuous long-term use like this. Resaw band saws have a much more powerful motor and use blades about 33 wide, some are even carbide tipped. You need the wider blades to maintain a straight even cut throughout the entire depth of material. Try and determine how much resawing you will want to do. If a standard band saw will be okay, just do not push it too hard when cutting material 33 and thicker and use as wide a blade as possible.

Make sure the blade tension; tracking, height and table adjustments are all convenient, easy to use and secure. You do not want to be constantly adjusting and tuning the machine so make sure there are no obvious problems. Any sloppy connections or adjustments could mean problems in tracking or stability.

Just a quick work about two common accessories. If your band saw does not come with a lamp, it is a good idea to buy one or set something up. Because of how you normally stand at the saw, your shadow naturally falls right across the table and blade. This can be very annoying if you are trying to make intricate and precise cuts, so a lamp is worth it. The second is a circle cutting attachment. This is a pet peeve of mine. There are some on the market, but they usually have a very small capacity. They are fine if you are making toys or smaller projects but not for even a medium sized tabletop. This is one attachment, which is easy to make yourself. Some plywood for the top, a 2×2 or 2×4 for the leg support and some clamps and you are in business. You can make it as large as you need, providing lots of work support and you can cut small circles on it as well.

Band Saw Check List

-Size. 83 to 243 throat and 33 to 133 height capacity. Make sure it will have enough depth and height capacity to do what you want it to. You need to take into account space, capacity and what you want to cut. Band saw sizes can be advertised either by the diameter of the wheels or by the cutting capacity, so be careful when you compare.

-What is the frame made of and is it solid and stable.

-Motor - Check the horsepower and amps. You'll need both when comparing. For bench top saws get at least 1/4 HP, better 1/3HP and for general shop use, a floor model with 3/4HP, or even better 1HP.

-Check that the wheels are balanced. You can tell by looking for circular drill marks where material has been removed to equal the weight around the rim.

-Table should tilt to 45 degrees right and if it tilts to the left as well it is a bonus. What size mitre slot and what kind on mitre gauge.

-Does it have guide blocks or bearings and if blocks is there bearing kits or resin blocks to replace the original steel blocks.

-What size dust port does it have and does it match your system or do you need an adapter.

-Where is the power switch and is it easy to reach? Switches in awkward places can be a safety hazard.

-Where is it made and where do you get parts & service? There are some excellent offshore machines out there but you have to be careful because there are also some bad ones. Check the brand and the company you are buying from and find out exactly where you can get servicing done.

Good luck. You are the one paying for it and using it, so find out as much as you can before you make the purchase so you wont have any regrets. And remember, no loose clothing and no jewelry, wear short sleeves, safety glasses and hearing protection.

Thomas is a writer for Western Tool - a premium online retailer of tools including saw blades, band saw blades, circular saw blades and more.

Choosing a Band Saw

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Mitre Saw & Joiner backlash Security

!9# Mitre Saw & Joiner backlash Security

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A cutting can cause kickback? Yes, in a sense. Many woodworkers are familiar with the unnerving experience with a sliding miter saw blade binds in the middle of the piece of wood cut, you hear a sudden violent shots back of the motor and blade unit. Such an event is not as likely as other forms of non-return to cause serious injury, but the operator can move with the desire to leave something safer - like grinding or sweeping the floor.

In most casesthe term "kickback" refers to stationary woodworking machines, which is usually much stronger than a sliding miter saw. Real setback occurs when the blade or the edge of a wood processing machine is connected to a piece in the store and rushes toward the operator. Compared to the miter saw kickbacks, which is a much more serious situation. The sudden movement, you can draw your hand in contact with the bit or blade. Or in the worst cases you may be beaten or stabbed withthrew-back in stock.

With a sliding miter saw "kickback" occurs when the blade is raised depends on the material during cutting. It is the material firmly against the wall saw - as they should - the result is a sudden force is driving the motor and saw blade assembly of the outside of the user's direction. While this is quite incredible, does not usually lead to serious consequences - on condition that the operator has the following basic safety precautions.

Even if you follow the basic machine gunSafety - keep your hands free and out of the way of the sword, wear safety equipment, make sure that every angle settings are locked safe, keep the material until the near the fence and bed of the instrument, refer etc. (if your has seen the manual for a complete list) - You can verify this occasional surprise. The most common reason is the one described above, where it locks the blade into the material and have seen in the case of sliding, has led theUsers.

Why? Kickback occurs when the miter cut (the slot of the blade) is closed in the blade and "capture" them. It often happens when you cross the long, wide boards in the middle. If the wood is not perfectly smooth and flat, can not be kept in close contact with the fence and saw the bed at any point. As the proceeds of the wood section and moves in close contact with / or enclosure and read, cut and change its shape to meet on the path of the blade. WhenCut long, large deposit on a sliding miter saw, as some carpenters from a crossbeam near the fence of the paper. This helps to mitigate the impacts of the bonding that takes place.

Other factors contributing to this relationship blade, including one or two that are totally avoidable. Wet wood or wood with a high pitch content is more "sticky" and may be more susceptible to the grave. A dull or inappropriate blade is also more of a tendency to bond. On a sliding miter saw, adull blade with a cutting angle of a few aggressive and jagged teeth is a recipe for cuts, cut short pieces bouncing back and forth, and generally unpleasant experience at least saws. A quality knife designed for use on miter saw to cut not only help to firm, but is also a world of difference in the quality of flowers delivered cutting saw.

You should also check that the saw is working properly. The blade must follow a perfectly straightTo avoid the cut, are chafing against the cut. Make sure the bevel and miter settings in your hand is almost faster than the blade, and there is no appreciable slop in one of the moving parts.

It 'a good idea to ensure that the two sides of the fence are on the same level. If you are not, and the fence is not adjustable, the problem with the addition of a shop-made sub-ether side fence and Shim, until the two are exactly coplanar be corrected. If everything works properly andwith a sharp knife right, should the vast majority of the cuts in the glass near smooth and without problems.

Mitre Another unpleasant event occurs when the blade catches the edge of a piece of cutting and fire above the shop. That occur mainly in very small pieces of stock, this kind of "backlash" rarely puts the operator in great physical danger (as long as appropriate protective equipment is used). But it is incredible, and can be very annoying when the sawed-offBullet - this can be extremely difficult to find - it's the part you need.

A blade good and proper function are the best defense against flying shear. You may also want to have a mild stroke, instead of banging when cutting the wood as quickly as possible (saw cut is a name, not an education). Another trick is that the blade to a complete stop before raising it to come to camp. If everything goes well, it should also leave small cutOff goes directly to the blade.

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Stained glass-making equipment

!9# Stained glass-making equipment

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Like all things, it is important equipment and then there would be nice to have equipment.

Basic equipment

Cutter

Must lead crystal is not difficult, but you make a good cutter glass. There are several glass cutters to choose from. My favorite gun is the glass cutter. It 'important to have a knife that is good for you, because this is a tool window you choose to use consistently.

There are basically two types of knives,one with steel wheels and those with hard-alloy wheels.

Cutters with steel wheels are generally less expensive, but do not last very long. The steel wheel is checked after the repeated use and must be replaced. Steel wheels are good for general purposes or glass cloth. The size of the wheel and angle of the bevel on the wheel determines how difficult it can score a glass.

Carbide wheels are more expensive than steel wheels. It tends to long periods fromexceed the cost difference. Many are self-lubricating, can save you time.

Glass Grinders

Grinders are used to smooth out the cuts and ensure a perfect fit and the ability to reduce overlap. The alternative is a grinder with a diamond file. This is less expensive, but weights much time and effort to purchase a mill.

When you choose a millstone into account the size of the working surface, contain the power of the mill and its accessories such as drill and faceShield and feet .. Further consideration should be the guarantee and the price

Welder

There are a variety of different manufacturers, sizes and types of welders. Most soldering irons range from 60 to 150 watts with a peak size of 1 / 8 inch to 3 / 8 inches. To check when choosing an iron, as long as it takes in heat, how long you keep the right temperature, has a temperature controller, and the tips are removable.

Probably the mostIt 'important to note when it becomes large, stained glass, is an iron that feels good in hand to decide. If iron is not comfortable, then this will more than likely will appear on your Lot lines.

Yes, the price is a factor, but do not forget a soldering iron will last for years and provide professional results.

Soldering Iron Stand

After choosing a welder, you must purchase a welding booth. The support can be simple or complex. TheKeep your stupid and sponge iron, while the most expensive have a built-in temperature controller, iron stand, sponge, power cord, a roll welding, flux bottle well, brush and a catch-all pocket. Needless to say, the complex will cost more than most.

Temperature Controllers

If it does not contain iron with a temperature controller, then you are in any case, you need a separate controller. With a temperature controller, a constant temperaturefor your welder.

Pliers and nippers break Grozer

These two instruments are used to breaking the glass. Pliers break can be used after you want a break line and mark the glass. Grozer Pliers are used for small areas with broken glass.

Semi-optional

Foils Burnisher

Foils a polishing machine is used with the construction Tiffany (copper foil). This tool allows you to safely press and hold the copper foil on the glass. A polishing machine is ainexpensive tool you can use a tongue depressor.

Table hydrofoil

A table foils automatically peels the paper backing, centering around the edges of the glass and partly the crimps. With a hydrofoil board also removes copper strip off and get caught.

Came Saw

Saws were used to cut metal or was, brass, zinc or copper. Came saws range from a model manual for a machine gun power chop saw.

A manual was seen consisting of a precision sawand a miter vise. This is the least expensive were all saws, but they require more time and effort. Electricity came saws range from 90 watts to 250 units. The size of the blade varies from 2 inches to 5 ¾ inches.

All were cut from 0 to 45 degree miters for proper fit.

The most powerful came, saw, the easier it will be cut, let alone life.

Cork Backed Stainless Steel Ruler

It is a steel ruler that is backed with cork. This is nice ifDrawing or cutting glass. The support of cork eliminates the ruler from slipping.

Soft bristle

The soft bristle brush to polish your size stained glass. With its soft bristles, is able to get in the smallest cracks.

A Fid

This inexpensive tool will be used to expand came from. This is very important to the use of heavily textured glass.

Optional glass painting tools

Glass Saw

A glass saw is a nice addition to a church windowGlass shop. With a glass you could see intricate cuts that otherwise would be possible to make this possible.

Glass saws can saw a saw or band saw wire loop. A diamond ring has a circular saw blade, which can be cut in all directions. The band saw has a diamond disc, and linear cutting coated glass thickness up to ¾ of an inch. The wire saw is the thinnest blade provides greater flexibility for cutting complex shapes and fine lines.

All three types of saws arewith different integrated features. You choose which one. Must be to meet your needs.

Came Bender

That came Bender precise curves lead to zinc, brass and copper came. This allows greater design freedom means the disk has been used. Bender came with you to round and oval plates.

Copper Foil Sheers

These curtains are specially designed pieces of paper template from the correct distance required for copper foil is cut or developedmay cause.

Notebook Layout

These are used to hold together the pieces of glass cut until ready to weld.

Glass Cutting Systems

There are a variety of glass-cutting equipment available. These systems can do repetitive shapes and geometric. Some of the more popular systems include Morton Portable Glass Shop, circular and strip cutters, and jitter bug.

Light Box

The light box is nice for color combinations and sight glass.

GlassDrill

Bits of glass are used to drill holes in glass.

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Band saws Hitachi - Model Highlights

!9# Band saws Hitachi - Model Highlights

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Hitachi is an international company, but the headquarters of the United States is based in Atlanta, Georgia. Hitachi products are available in nearly 4,000 stores with service centers, numbering over a thousand available. Hitachi said on its website the best tools for professional use have power.

The U.S. subsidiary of Hitachi Corporation has been working independently in 1948, however, membership of the parent company offers the advantages of Hitachiquick access to new technologies being developed in other fields, but also advance the efficiency and performance of the instruments of power. Thanks to the expertise of Hitachi in metallurgy, plastics and the merger, the company can make power tools easier to use and are faster in terms of long-term performance and long-term.

Hitachi uses a three-dimensional computer-aided design (CAD) to build its system of power tools in virtual reality before building a prototype live. By using this virtualPrototype Hitachi can do a thorough analysis to see happen where the error is more likely. In this virtual environment, means of power for strength, vibration resistance, impact effects, effects of environmental conditions and the effectiveness of security features can be tested. This process saves time and money by eliminating the need to build a working prototype and test it only to find that returns to the drawing board once again have to start all over again.

The design of the systemhas led to improvements such as a cooling system that allows the instruments to go around for a long time without burning out. A further technological progress improves balance, so tools are easier to maneuver and lighter.

Hitachi table saws, you can enjoy all these comments and requests. They offer three different models of table saws for different levels of working conditions.

C10FL 1 10 "Stationary Table Saw

This table saw is built for long rip cuts and repeated cross-Cuts. It has a 3 hp engine that is covered to protect it from damage from dust and dirt. The blade adjustment knobs are conveniently located on the front of the table saw away. It contains a higher scale corner of the table T-slot miter gauge, and set posts, and a dust collection hook-up.

2 C10FR 10 "worksite table saw

This table saw is suitable for most serve as the fixed table saw, but with some added features for portability. This model includes an LEDTo help light the piece that you see. It 'still an indicator of cut, with nine positive miter, dust chute, and a handy fold-and-roll are available to move the entire table seemed easy.

3 C10RA2 Table Saw with stand

This portable table saw is slightly smaller than the two previous models. The motor is 2.6 horsepower with a lock on fence rails and front and rear. Security features include a clear blade guard, a splitter that directs the split woodaway from the user, an anti-kickback function and an electric brake. The table is smaller, but the table saw weighs only 64 pounds.

Hitachi portable tools guaranteed for five years and the fixed equipment for two years to the original purchaser. All accessories are for 30-day warranty.

Company's website includes many positive testimonials from satisfied customers. Hitachi Table Saw is a manufacturer well known to many retailers around the United States, you are surefind one of their table saws that may fit your needs.

Band saws Hitachi - Model Highlights

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